Tyres and Tubes
We only stock dual sport tyres for the larger adventure/dual sport motorcycles. Your tyre is the only thing between your motorcycle and the road. We value quality and safety. Brands we support and recommend are: Metzeler Karoo's, Pirelli Scorpion Rally and Michelin Anakee Wild's.
Not sure which tyre to choose?
- A new concept for adventure and enduro on/off tyres dedicated to off-road expeditions, that feature both off-road traction and on-road stability with excellent mileage.
- Larger knobs offers more stability and better off-road traction and handling.
- Differentiated spacing between knobs improved the footprint area and knob efficiency, and gives more on-road and off-road traction.
- New tread pattern and knob layout footprint area is more uniform and constant, resulting in increased mileage on-road and off-road.
- Suitable for both light and heavy enduro/dual sport bikes.
- A relatively newcomer in the dual-sport adventure tyre market.
- Stability and rider comfort come together thanks to radial technology, available for the first time on a knobbly tyre range.
- The innovative build of the tread enables better traction on road or off-road as well as great handling and precision.
- Long-lasting and extremely resistant to high temperatures and many kinds of damage thanks to their optimal tread depth and new tread compounds.
- Limited sizes available: 170/60 R17 72R, 150/70 R17 69R, 120/70 R19 60R & 110/80 R19 59R
- Created for Dakar and rally competitions in the desert and has become, with the evolution of its tread pattern, an excellent alternative for big enduro bike owners who love adventure. Compounds were tested in the most severe Rally Raids in the world. High resistance to hard wear and stable performance even over the longest stretches. Maximum resistance to consumption and to tearing even over long distances
- Patented reinforced carcass structure lead to a reduction of the sliding effect (-10%) and decrease in the operating temperature (-10°C). Greater traction on all types of ground in any condition of temperature and speed.
- Optimised block layout - high directional capacity of the front tyre and effective traction on the rears. Results in excellent control in bends for the maximum transfer to the ground of all the power available.
Checking your tyre pressure is the most important tyre maintenance function you can perform
One of the questions we are often asked by riders are what tyre pressure to use. The answer to this is not always clear and straightforward. It is important to adjust according to the motorcycle, the tyres fitted, the terrain you are riding, your own riding style and skill and the load on the motorcycle.
Always keep in mind that hard cornering, carrying a pillion, extra heavy loads and sustained high speeds, require higher tyre pressures (up to that indicated on the sidewall).
For high-speed, fully loaded or dual-riding touring-motorcycle applications, inflate the tyres to the maximum recommended by the manufacturer. Never exceed the maximum load indicated on the tyre sidewall or the motorcycle capacity load according to the owner's manual (whichever is lower).
Under-inflated tyres can result in imprecise cornering, higher running temperatures, irregular tread wear, fatigue cracking, over-stressing and eventual failure of the tyre carcass, or loss of control, which could cause accident, injury or death. The over-inflating of your tyres does not increase the load-carrying capacity, but will result in a hard ride and accelerated tyre wear in the centre of the contact patch.
All the above rules changes slightly when riding on gravel, sand or rocky terrain. Deflating your tyres give you a bigger footprint and contact area with the road (more rubber on the road) and therefore help with stability and traction. Normal road pressure is 2.8 Bar in the front and 3.0 Bar at the rear when running off-road tyres. The tyres run cooler and have less wear. A general rule of thumb is to deflate to 1.6 Bar front and rear when you leave the tar for a dirt or gravel road. When you get to mud or sand, deflate further to 1 Bar. On Tubeless tyres you can deflate to a further 0.7 Bar for really-really hectic deep sand tracks. But..... the terrain might change .... be very aware of rocks and potholes and inflate a few points to 1.0 Bar when needed. On Tube Type tyres do not deflate the tyres under 1.0 Bar when encountering sand tracks. You are running the risk of shearing the valve off the tube under severe acceleration. What happens is that when the tyre is deflated under 1.0 Bar the tyre itself loses grip over the rim. Under heavy acceleration the rim starts turning faster than the tyre itself which can result in a valve on the tube being ripped off. In all circumstances it is important that you also take the weight of the rider, luggage and if you ride with a pillion into consideration. Each individual case is different and you will have to experiment a little bit to find what works best for you.
Tyre Safety Tips
- If you fit a tyre that does not strictly conform to the original equipment specifications for your particular motorcycle, please validate it by a professional technician.
- Use the correct pressure for the tyre and terrain you riding.
- Do not use/ride a tyre in excess of its indicated speed rating or with a load that exceeds the tyre's load index.
- To prevent unstable handling, we recommend that the same type of tyre is fitted on the front and rear of the motorcycle.
- Inspect tyres regularly. Pay particular attention to the tread area (check for the presence of debris, cuts, deterioration or irregular wear patterns), the sidewalls (impact damage, cuts, cracking or abnormal deformation), the bead area (traces of abrasions or rim damage).
- For the first 100km of riding after new tyres have been fitted, ride at moderate speed and increase cornering angles progressively, until the tyres reach their optimal performance levels.
- Check cold tyre pressure frequently with a good-quality gauge that holds a reading, and always before extended trips.
- Always ensure that you not only have your tyre repair kit, but also the correct tools in your toolkit to take the wheel of the bike and tyre levers to take the tyre of the rim, especially on tube tyre bikes.
Factors affecting tyre wear and durability
- Factors within the rider's control include inflation pressure, loads carried, general/average riding speed and riding style (braking and acceleration).
- Factors which are beyond the rider's control and might require adaptation of your riding style, include the frequency of corners, type of road surface and the ambient temperature.
- Mechanical problems including warped rims, worn suspension components, loose steering head bearings and/or frame misalignment can also cause the premature wear of tyres.
- Just as any one of the above factors can have a detrimental effect on the tread life of a tyre, a combination of several factors will cause significant wear.
Lifespan of a tyre
If you drive a typical number of kilometers annualy with your motorcycle, a tyre's tread will wear out, long before the rubber compound does. In general the average lifespan of a tyre is six years from their production/manufacture date, regardless on the tread left.
Tyre manufacturers, such as Continental and Michelin say a tyre can last up to 10 years, provided you get annual tyre inspections after the fifth year.
Radial Construction Tyres versus Bias Tyres
A radial tyre consists of rubber-bonded cords that run across the circumference of the tyre at 90 degrees from the direction of the tyre travel.
The radial construction allows the tread and the sidewall to operate independently and helps to absorb bumps on the riding surface. Due to their soft sidewalls, the crowns of radial tyres stick to the road on contact. Their footprint is shorter but wider than that of a bias type tyre and provides added grip when leaning in heavily on corners.
The pressure of the air in contact with the tire surface is distributed more effectively with radial tyres, which results in more even tread wear over time. Also, because of their soft sidewalls, which absorb the impact of imperfections on the road surface, radial tyres provide greater comfort at high speeds. The construction of a bias tyre is made from layers of ply cord running diagonally to the center line of the tread. The layers are placed so that the cords create a criss-cross pattern. The whole structure is uniform throughout with the crown and sidewalls of the tyre having similar mechanical properties.
Because the sidewalls of bias tyres are more rigid, they are able to carry a greater weight than radial tyres. At high speeds, however, bias tyres can become so deformed that their performance are affected.
In short, bias tyres are suitable for motorcycles/vehicles with small to medium sized engines and flexible chassis, traveling at moderate speeds..They are also suited for heavy or heavily loaded motorcycles.
Radial tyres are needed for more powerful vehicles with rigid chassis, for more sporty purposes and for travelling at high speeds.
Load Index and Speed Rating
The load index of a tyre indicates how much weight the tyre can safely carry at maximum air pressure, not going faster than the speed rating of the tyre and under proper use. Usually the speed rating is much higher than the legal speed limit and it is unlikely that you will travel at those speeds fully loaded.
When you had a puncture
For tubeless tyres: Remember that if you inserted a plug into your tyre when fixing a puncture, that it is a temporary fix only. If the puncture was on the sidewall, replace the tyre. If the puncture was in the middle of the tyre on the contact patch, you must take the tyre to a reputable tyre fitment centre to install a gaiter or mushroom plug. A gaiter or mushroom plug is a permanent fix and you can safely utilise the rest of the tyre life safely. You might have an insurance issue if you have an accident and the tyre has only a temporary plug fix.
For tube tyres: If you had a puncture and patched the tube, ensure that you replace your tube after your trip. Please note that you cannot patch a Heavy-Duty tube successfully. The Silicone content of a Heavy Duty Tube is too high, resulting in the patch not sticking securely to the tube.